How Quality Cocoa is Decided Upon

Alyssa Flood

A Recap..

In our previous blog post on Barry & Audes Tour of the Ivory Coast, we learnt about the farming & harvesting of cocoa - how cocoa farming is a very precise methodology with many hands and very diligent processes. 

So, how then are the cocoa beans ranked? What becomes good, 'real' chocolate?

Post-fermentation

As mentioned previously, the beans are fermented for a couple of days. Natural yeasts and bacteria break down the pulp sugars, generating heat and triggering chemical reactions inside the beans that reduce bitterness and create the complex flavour precursors associated with fine chocolate.

The beans, as we know, are evenly spread over elevated wooden tray, protected from the elements by a roof.

Then, finer quality checks are carried out.

Quality Assurance

Cut Testing

One of the most important methods is the cut test, sometimes informally described as “guillotining” the beans. Samples are taken from each batch and sliced lengthways using a specialised blade. Cutting the beans open allows inspectors to evaluate colour, texture, and structural uniformity, which reveal how well the beans were fermented and whether defects are present.

Farmers look closely following this cut - well-fermented beans typically appear brown to deep chocolate-coloured, indicating that fermentation reactions successfully broke down sugars and reduced bitterness.

Purple or slate-grey interiors suggest under-fermentation the resulting chocolate may taste harsh or astringent.

The percentage of defective beans found in the sample directly determines classification, such as fine flavour cocoa versus bulk cocoa — and influences the price farmers receive.

Post-Harvesting Checks

Beyond visual inspection, additional post-harvest quality checks measure moisture content, bean size, and aroma. Moisture meters confirm beans are properly dried as excess moisture can cause mold during shipping. Bean count tests - measuring how many beans make up 100 grams - help assess uniformity and maturity, with larger, consistent beans generally preferred for premium chocolate production.

Experienced farmers and Quality Surveyors even know if something is off by smell!

Together, these layered quality assessments ensure that only beans with strong flavour potential and safe storage characteristics continue along the chocolate supply chain.

 

Next stop is understanding why cocoa & chocolate prices are going up - but whether that is having an effect on the production side of things...

How Quality Cocoa is Decided Upon
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